Linked by Rivers

It’s 7pm on a warm mid-August evening and I’m halfway down the wall of the Tuolumne River canyon. Far below me, meandering like a silvered serpent, runs the river—still distant though I’ve already been hiking downhill for half an hour. Faint murmurs of running water and fragments of voices from a rafting party camped on a lone sand bar rise up to greet me on the delicious, velvety-soft air. 

I hadn’t planned on walking this far down—the climb back up will leave me exhausted and drenched in sweat—but the canyon pulls me in, each turn in the trail promising yet another closer view of the river, and I can’t help myself. The opposite hillside has already taken on the deepening yellows of late summer grasses, accented by the oranges and reds of the setting sun; and upriver the canyon reveals its source, a glimpse of high peaks and lingering snowy patches on the Sierra crest. The scene is utterly enchanting. 

Written by David Lukas

David Lukas is a professional naturalist and writer. For more than 20 years, he has conducted nature tours and classes in places such as Peru and Borneo. He is the author of Wild Birds of California and the newly revised Sierra Nevada Natural History guidebook, the classic hiker’s handbook to plants and animals of the Sierra Nevada. He also wrote the environment chapter for the Lonely Planet travel guide to Yosemite National Park, and several hundred newspaper and magazine articles on nature.

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