The water has indeed risen. 75,000 cfs. Scuttlebutt has it going higher. I make a mental note to scout an uphill escape route as we float. Who knows? The dam just might blow. (I cross my fingers, actually preferring this option, but keep my mouth shut.) Six hundred vertical-foot tsunami. Should take a few hours to make it a hundred miles downstream, plenty of time to scramble to the perfect viewpoint and crack a beer.

Suzanne joins me at Phantom’s boat beach and we observe as the nervous clients pack. She watched a thirty-seven foot motor rig flip end-over-end against the wall in Crystal last week. Crystal is ten miles downstream. That’s a bit over an hour at current speeds.

Written by Jeffe Aronson

Jeffe Aronson rows dories in the Grand Canyon. His love of rivers, and evocative descriptions of wild places and the constant tension and nearness of death, has gripped travelers and readers alike for the duration of Jeffe's 36 years as a river guide and story teller. Jeffe is currently seeking an agent for his book, River God—a riveting collection of adventure narratives that reveals nature at her wildest and most beautiful, or as Jeffe says, "River God takes readers places they yearn to glimpse, but dare not go."

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Grand Junction CO, Colorado,

On the bucket list of life’s goals, a river trip in a wooden boat through the Grand Canyon has to be a must.

BIG waves, small boats.

Dories are the smallest, most difficult and most fragile boats running the Canyon today. It is as close as you can get to Major John Wesley Powell’s first successful journey through the canyon in 1869.

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Starring: Art Daar as himself (who else could play that part?), Elmer as Earl, Earl as Elmer (also plays the fairy and “Aargh”), Diane as Raven, Ralph as The Kahoona, Maddie as Kahoona’s woman, Cindy as confused wife of Earl and/or Elmer, Steve (client) and Jeanie as photographer and supply sergeants, Jerry and Nancy as newlyweds (Jerry also as water acrobat and Nancy as lost oar retriever), Dan and Kim as nomadic comedy team. Produced by: Billie as leader and on oars, John, Rio and Steve on dory oars, and Wild Bill and Ned on supply boat oars. All of these also; cooked, cleaned, herded, humored, taught, doctored and, we hope, became friends with the strange cast of this drama. On April 30, 2008 Art and I were pleased when the others in the hotel lobby mistook us for river guides. We played it a little before admitting we were also clients. Being mistaken for painters refurbishing the building brought us back to earth. Art and I have been sledding in the Yukon together for two years and had decided on this trip over a year ago. The tour started with a meeting sitting in a circle of chairs that was to become so familiar in camp. Writing about it now, it is hard to believe that the strangers in this first circle were the same friends who reluctantly parted here sixteen days later. Billie introduced herself as our trip leader. Having a beautiful young woman as our trip leader caused Art and I to exchange an approving nod. Her good looks became only an exclamation point to her other fine qualities as we got to know her better. The other guests on the Grand Canyon dory adventure were: Diane from Alaska; Steve and Jeanie from California; Dan and Kim from Florida and Virginia; Ralph and Maddie from Washington; and Jerry and Nancy from Florida.

After a short briefing, we collected our waterproof bags and dispersed to pack for an early morning start to the river. On May first our two vans, each towing a dory, were ready to depart at seven a.m. as planned. The dory is a fine craft, even sitting on a trailer. Her gracefully upturned bow and stern with a solid broad beam say plainly that she is ready for anything. The comfortable seating for two fore and aft promises a wild ride. The rowing well is centered and functional looking. My pulse quickened looking at them. Regan and his five month old setter Ruby drove us to the river. As we neared the canyon we ran a gauntlet of red cliffs. Some looked like grumpy old men but mostly they looked somnolent in the warm morning sun. At Lees Ferry we got our first safety lecture. This included detailed instruction on righting an overturned dory. I was slightly comforted when I noticed that I wasn’t the only one who was slightly apprehensive. The spell of the canyon was descending on us already. A group on a big rubber raft left ahead of us. The dories captured the attention and photos of the riders on the rafts, even as they started their own adventure. The first riffle made me chuckle, remembering how my wife, Chris, had cleared her whole side of a raft into the water the last time we were doing white water. Violet Green swallows escorted us through Paria Riffle. If you can see the white water as you approach, the run is a riffle. Art and I in front and Ralph and Maddie in the back relaxed as Rio, our oarsman today, started to introduce us to the canyon. He was just explaining about the successful reintroduction of California Condors to the canyon when they appeared, right on cue.

They cruised near Navajo Bridges as we approached them. The bridges were much more impressive from below than when we had driven over them. Dropping further into Marble Canyon we saw phalaropes feeding on a sandbar and noted the first appearance of Coconino Sandstone in the cliffs around us. Badger Canyon Rapid started announcing its presence well before we arrived. A rumbling base sound from down canyon had us reviewing our safety lecture. This was a rapid. Only sporadic flips of spray peeked over the shiny, reflective, laminar flow leading to the drop line stretching across the river. The dories ahead were swallowed in a blink. Before we dropped over the edge we got a short look at the next dory with its pretty bow pointed at the sky and the one beyond it going sideways with the occupants bailing water out energetically. We crouched and gripped the rail with both hands, trying to anticipate which side would be “high” and planning to move that direction at Rio’s command. He had already shifted us minutely right or left to balance (trim) the boat. We went over the first wave and quartered the second one. The wave broke over us in a cold embrace. It was like that first punch you take in a fight. The nerves were gone and I yelled the “Yee Haw” that was to become my trademark for the trip.

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After 25 years of marriage to the most incredible lady, I was able to fulfill a childhood dream of hers by giving her an anniversary gift that will last forever. On our 24 wedding anniversary, I surprised her with a hot air balloon ride over Monument Valley, Arizona. Upon landing the balloon my children and a guide surprised her with a champagne lunch and gifts. One of the gifts was the announcement of the OARS Dories trip into the Great Unknown, The Hidden Canyon, The Grand Canyon. After one year and a few weeks, we just finished creating memories that will truly last a lifetime and beyond. We had such an amazing trip from stem to stern. The wonderful guides, The Dales, went well beyond our expectations and made this trip a fulfillment of childhood dreams. Absolutely the best time imaginable. Highly recommend this trip to anyone willing to enjoy the wonders of God’s work.

Thank you for allowing me to fulfill one of my wifes childhood dreams. Due to financial considerations and time away from work we were not able to take the lower half of the trip but upon her 50th birthday in 2011, we plan to return to see the lower half of this most unique wonder. Thank you so very much for helping me fulfill those dreams for my wife. Dreams can come true in a Dory from OARS.

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Life offers us certain magical treasures that cannot be duplicated. Eating a fresh, warm, buttery croissant in a Parisian café. Sharing your first glimpse into Yosemite Valley with someone special. Sharing a pennant victory on home soil with your baseball-loving kids. Experiencing a whitewater river trip in a sleek, classic dory.

Smooth, solid, surreal…As stylish as it is burly, a dory is to the river what an Italian sports car is to mean, urban streets and rowdy rural routes. No other boat is as capable, safe or elegant on the wild waters that O.A.R.S. explores. Beyond their stout, thoughtful design dories hold a soulful connection to the river and a heritage of western exploration. Combined, the qualities of the vessel make for an unmatched and unforgettable journey.

Dories are made for rock and roll. They’re also finely tuned to provide classic amenities. Hardwood-hulled but ultra-buoyant, they slice walls of wave, buck through rapids and land large drops with ease (and more than enough splash).

Written by Tracy

Writer, Photographer, former Waterblogged Editor

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