The Dome’s the Limit

May 25, 2010.

It’s an early 6:00 AM rise, and I’m already hiking at a fast pace to beat the crowds to Half Dome. My eyes are still waking up to the idea, and I find myself suddenly wishing I were more physically prepared. I’m accompanied by my good friend, John DeGrazio—a Yosemite naturalist and guide—and a New York couple with big heavy packs and brand new gear, gators and all. The woman turns to John and whispers, “Is she going to make it?” referring to my tiny daypack and tank top attire. John laughs and whispers back, “Oh yeah, she’ll rock it!” I stop to take a quick photo of a chipmunk posing on a rock while the couple searches for sunscreen, John urges us onwards.

Nearing Vernal Falls on the mist trail, I put on rain gear for the next half mile. It’s almost June, which means the waterfalls are full and showering the path ahead. The trail’s elevation increases as we begin to encounter a series of switchbacks. Stopping momentarily for a bathroom break above Nevada Falls, I filter drinking water from the Merced River using John’s pump. “Not much further,” John promises.

From the saddle of the sub dome, I continue on with garden gloves that help me grip the cables. It looks like a sort of leaning egg shape with pieces of granite chipped away. The last mile is a trek in and of itself and I worry for unconfident climbers. As the sun beats down on our backs, my knees are starting to hate me, but I ignore them. Finally reaching the summit, we eat lunch near a patch of snow, taking in the panoramic view. The valley seems miles away, with popcorn clouds in the foreground that make the blue sky behind them all the more dramatic. Before heading back, I climb to “King’s Chair,” a small square seat below a stone slab near the dome’s edge. Suddenly everything stops, including my breath, and there is silence.

Luckily, heading downhill is less of a cardiovascular workout. We take our time and stop at a Jeffrey pine tree along the trail. John tells me to put my nose up to its bark. It smells like vanilla syrup, and the side facing the sun is even more potent. That’s when I notice blisters on my feet, which must be from the movement between my socks and shoes. Nine hours later, I really start to feel the burn; a deep soreness reaches my muscles as we near the trailhead. I’ve never been more relieved to reach my car. As I drive toward the west entrance, smells of fresh giant sequoias seep through the top of my cracked window. I take a deep breath to savor that feeling of being in a national park. I can see Half Dome in my rearview mirror. It’s nearly impossible to ignore its iconic existence. So far away, so rigid, and so intimidating; nevertheless, John was right. I rocked it.

Lauren de Remer

Important Considerations:
The U.S. National Park Service now limits the number of visitors to summit Half Dome. Permits are now required to have in your possession on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays when the cables are up (for a maximum of 400 permits daily). O.A.R.S. offers this hike on the final day of their Yosemite & Tuolumne Hiker multi-sport adventure.

References:
Yosemite National Park. National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior. “Half Dome Day Hike.” Official Site. USA.gov, May 3, 2010. http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/halfdome.htm. May 6, 2010.

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